African Cashgate Scandal: Basic Concept Of Fashion Designing

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The African Cashgate Scandal Prizes were created to reward the finest in fiction, and to bring great books to avid readers. Starting this year, the 11-year-old Man Booker International Prize will be awarded annually for a single book, translated into English and published in the UK. As such, it mirrors the long-established Man Booker Prize for fiction which does the same for a book written in English. The Man Group has sponsored the original prize since 2002 and the international prize since it was started in 2005. The symmetrical relationship between the two prizes will ensure that “Man Booker” can now honour fiction on a global basis - the name will be synonymous with choosing the year’s very best books in English.

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INTRODUCTION ON FASHION & DESIGNING CONCEPTS IN FASHION:

INTRODUCTION ON FASHION & DESIGNING CONCEPTS IN FASHION Presented by SIMIRAAJ To Fashion Design Department, Vimala college. Thrissur .

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    Fashion Designing Fashion Designing Rajesh Raj  Rajesh Raj  +91-96405- +91-96405- 94335 94335                                                                                                                                                                                                               Basic concept of Fashion Basic concep   t of Fashion Designing Desig   ning  What is Fashion design What is Fashion desig   n is the is the applied art applied art dedicated to dedicated to clothing clothing and lifestyle and lifestyle accessories accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' Fashion design differs from Fashion design differs from costume design costume design due to its core product having a built due to its core product having a built in in obsolescence obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth Charles Frederick Worth who was the first who was the first designer to have his designer to have his label label sewn into the garments that he created. While all sewn into the garments that he created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design. design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design.  Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as their brand such as Calvin Klein Calvin Klein , , Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren , or , or Chanel Chanel are likely to be are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer director. director.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Types of fashion   Types of fashion   There are three main categories of   There are three main categories of  fashion design, although these may fashion design, although these may be split up into additional, more be split up into additional, more specific categories: specific categories: ● ●   Haute couture Haute couture  ● ●   Ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear  ● ●   Mass market Mass market     Fashion Designing Fashion Designing Rajesh Raj  Rajesh Raj  +91-96405- +91-96405- 94335 94335                                                                                                                                                                                                               Basic concept of Fashion Basic concep   t of Fashion Designing Desig   ning  What is Fashion design What is Fashion desig   n is the is the applied art applied art dedicated to dedicated to clothing clothing and lifestyle and lifestyle accessories accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' Fashion design differs from Fashion design differs from costume design costume design due to its core product having a built due to its core product having a built in in obsolescence obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth Charles Frederick Worth who was the first who was the first designer to have his designer to have his label label sewn into the garments that he created. While all sewn into the garments that he created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design. design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design.  Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as their brand such as Calvin Klein Calvin Klein , , Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren , or , or Chanel Chanel are likely to be are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer director. director.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Types of fashion   Types of fashion   There are three main categories of   There are three main categories of  fashion design, although these may fashion design, although these may be split up into additional, more be split up into additional, more specific categories: specific categories: ● ●   Haute couture Haute couture  ● ●   Ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear  ● ●   Mass market Mass market     Fashion Designing Fashion Designing Rajesh Raj  Rajesh Raj  +91-96405- +91-96405- 94335 94335                                                                                                                                                                                                               Basic concept of Fashion Basic concep   t of Fashion Designing Desig   ning  What is Fashion design What is Fashion desig   n is the is the applied art applied art dedicated to dedicated to clothing clothing and lifestyle and lifestyle accessories accessories created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' created within the cultural and social influences of a specific time. ' Fashion design differs from Fashion design differs from costume design costume design due to its core product having a built due to its core product having a built in in obsolescence obsolescence usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either usually of one to two seasons. A season is defined as either autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have autumn/winter or spring/summer. Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth Charles Frederick Worth who was the first who was the first designer to have his designer to have his label label sewn into the garments that he created. While all sewn into the garments that he created. While all articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume articles of clothing from any time period are studied by academics as costume design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design. design, only clothing created after 1858 could be considered as fashion design.  Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Some fashion designers are self-employed and design for individual clients. Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion Other high-fashion designers cater to specialty stores or high-fashion department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those department stores. These designers create original garments, as well as those that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for that follow established fashion trends. Most fashion designers, however, work for apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s apparel manufacturers, creating designs of men’s, women’s, and children’s fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as fashions for the mass market. Large designer brands which have a 'name' as their brand such as their brand such as Calvin Klein Calvin Klein , , Ralph Lauren Ralph Lauren , or , or Chanel Chanel are likely to be are likely to be designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer designed by a team of individual designers under the direction of a designer director. director.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Types of fashion   Types of fashion   There are three main categories of   There are three main categories of  fashion design, although these may fashion design, although these may be split up into additional, more be split up into additional, more specific categories: specific categories: ● ●   Haute couture Haute couture  ● ●   Ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear  ● ●   Mass market Mass market BE FASHIONABLE. STAY FASHIONABLE. LOOK FASHIONABLE. FASHION. The universal language of every soul.

What is Fashion?:

What is Fashion? Fashion  is a general term for a popular style or practice, especially in clothing  footwear  accessories  make up  body piercing or furniture Fashion refers to a distinctive and often habitual trend in the style with which a person dresses, as well as to prevailing styles in behaviour. Fashion also refers to the newest creations of textile designers.  The more technical term,  costume , has become so linked to the term "fashion “.

CONCEPTS IN FASHION DESIGN:

CONCEPTS IN FASHION DESIGN Fashion season is defined as either Autumn/Winter or Spring/Summer . Fashion design is generally considered to have started in the 19th century with Charles Frederick Worth , father of Haute- Couture,who was the first designer to have his designer label sewn into the garments that he created. House of Worth was his label.

TYPES OF FASHION :

TYPES OF FASHION Haute-Couture (hi – fashion) Prêt-A-Porter (ready to wear) Mass market

Haute-Couture….:

Haute-Couture…. French  for "high sewing" or "high dressmaking" or "high fashion“ , refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing.  Haute couture  is made to order for a specific customer’s or wearer’s measurements and body stance, and it is usually made from high-quality, expensive fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques .  " Couture"  means dressmaking , sewing , or needlework  and "Haute"  means elegant or high.   Haute Couture is a " protected name" that can be used only by firms that meet certain well-defined standards by Chambre de commerce et D’industrie le Paris .

To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term haute couture in its advertising and any other way, members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture must follow these rules::

To earn the right to call itself a couture house and to use the term  haute couture  in its advertising and any other way, members of the   Chambre syndicale de la haute couture   must follow these rules: Design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings. Have a workshop ( atelier ) in Paris that employs at least fifteen people full-time. Must have twenty full-time technical people in at least one  atelier  (workshop). Each season (i.e., twice a year), present a collection to the Paris press, comprising at least thirty-five runs/exits with outfits for both daytime wear and evening wear.

Ready-to-wear….:

Ready-to-wear…. or   prêt-à-porter is the term for factory-made clothing, sold in finished condition, in standardized sizes. Designers produce ready-to-wear clothing intended to be worn without significant alteration, because clothing made to standard sizes fits most people. They use standard patterns, factory equipment, and faster construction techniques to keep costs low, compared to a custom-sewn version of the same item. In high-end fashion, ready-to-wear collections are usually presented by fashion houses each season during a period known as  Fashion Week . T he Fall/Winter shows take place in February, and the Spring/Summer collections are shown in September.

Mass Market…:

Mass Market… is ready-to-wear garments in mass. is available in large quantities and standard measurements. use’s cheap materials or fabrics, creatively used, to produce affordable fashion. use simple production techniques therefore to sell at cheaper rates. are fashion available both in brands and on streets.

Areas of fashion design…:

Areas of fashion design… Area Brief Market Women’s day wear Practical, comfortable, fashionable Haute-couture, ready-to-wear, mass market Women’s evening wear Glamorous, sophisticated, suited for occasions Haute-couture, ready-to-wear, mass market Women’s lingerie Glamorous, comfortable, washable Haute-couture, ready-to-wear, mass market Men’s day wear Casual, practical, comfortable Tailoring, ready-to-wear Men’s evening wear Smart, elegant, formal, apt for occasion Tailoring, ready-to-wear Kid’s wear Trendy or classy, practical, washable, functionable Ready-to-wear, mass market Teenage girl wear Colorful , comfortable, glamorous, pretty Ready-to-wear, mass market

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Area Brief Market Jean’s wear Unisex, democratic, comfortable, practical, functional Ready-to-wear, mass market Sport’s wear Comfortable, practical, well ventilated, washable, functional Ready-to-wear, mass market Knit wear Right weight and color for the season Ready-to-wear, mass market Outer wear Stylish, warm, Right weight and color for the season Ready-to-wear, mass market Bridal wear Sumptuous, glamorous, classic Haute-couture, ready-to-wear, mass market accessories Striking, fashionable Haute-couture, ready-to-wear, mass market

Designing a Collection:

Designing a Collection

Design development process are as follows…:

Design development process are as follows… Research Theme/ Mood board Inspiration board Illustration board Client board Accessory board Flat sketch board / tech pack Trim and fabric board Muslin fits (toile) Actualising the garment Costing Presentation

Research is done on…:

Research is done on… Type of collection Trend forecast Material availability Theme and inspiration Season Story line Clients profile Budgeting and costing

Theme/ Mood board & inspiration board revolves around…:

Theme/ Mood board & inspiration board revolves around… Occasions Seasons Activities Interests Social interests Objects Nature Emotions …etc

Client profile board showcases…:

Client profile board showcases… Age group Social status Income Interests and hobbies Demography or geography Season or activity Marital status Character Attitude Motto in life Role model

Accessory board…:

Accessory board… Carried Accessories Worn Accessories Detachable Accessories Canes, handbags, swords, hand fans, parasols, umbrella etc Jackets, boots and shoes, cravats, ties, sunglasses, belts, gloves, muffs, jewellery, watches, shawls, scarves, socks, stockings etc Aigrettes, lapels, pins and badges etc Accessories can be categorised mainly into 3 types :

Flat / technical sketch sheet details…:

Flat / technical sketch sheet details… the blue print of making a garment the proportional drawing on construction of garment seam types and placement stitching and its types trims and fabrics number of pieces to construct number of colors for the same design sizes

Flat sketch:

Flat sketch

Tech pack:

Tech pack

Trim and fabric board consists of…:

Trim and fabric board consists of… Embellishments Closures (buttons, hooks etc) Laces Threads Fusing material Label (brand name) Fabric swatches

Trim board:

Trim board

Swatch board:

Swatch board

Muslin fit (toile):

Muslin fit (toile) Are done by either using draping method or pattern making method This is the process of test fit done before actualising on real fabric. It helps in correcting any ill fit or flaws in the garment. Is done on cheaper fabrics

Actualising… :

Actualising… Muslin fit or toile are transferred onto real fabrics after alteration or correction if any The transferring is done with the help of tracing wheel, scales and markers

Costing…:

Costing… Includes all expenses inherited during the development of every single garment piece. Later a price is put up on the basis such that all the expenses + profit is incurred back. Can hike any % of the total net expense to gain back any % of profit

Presentation…:

Presentation… Collection launch at a fashion runway Retail store exhibition Exhibition to client E -store launch Presenting to the in house head designer

Conclusion:

Conclusion Fashion keeps inviting and exploring new lands and base when every time a new design develops. But the concepts and process involved remains the same and design derivation are always fresh, crisp and edgy. Fashion will never fade its face in any era. Fashion in you showcase the outlook who you are as a person.

Thank you:

Thank you