hair cosmetics 2011

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SUBMITTED BY SOWMYA K BALAN COSMETICS

Cosmet cs : 

C o sm e t cs External preparations, applied to skin, hair & nails for the purpose of covering, coloring, softening, cleansing, nourishing, waving, setting, mollification, preservation, removal and protection.

HAIR : 

HAIR One of the vital parts of the body and considered to be accessory structure of the integument along with sebaceous glands, sweat glands and nails. Important component of the overall appeal of the human body.

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Structure of hair

FUNCTIONS OF HAIR : 

FUNCTIONS OF HAIR 1 . Protect the scalp , cushion round the head, and insulate the skull . 2. Eyebrows protect the eye from small foreign particles and diverts sweat from the eyes 3. The hairs, guarding the entrances to nostrils and external ear canals filter the air and help to prevent the entry of small insects and foreign particles. 4 . Body hair helps in evaporation of perspiration and draining of the external water from the body .

HAIR CARE PREPARATIONS : 

HAIR CARE PREPARATIONS Classification: Hair cleansers Hair dressings Hair wavers, curlers and straightners Hair tonics Hair removers Hair dyes and bleaches To overcome ailments or other problems of hair and also for decorative or beautification purposes.

HAIR CLEANSING PREPARATIONS: 

HAIR CLEANSING PREPARATIONS SHAMPOOS They are suitable detergents for the washing of hair, packaged in a form convenient for use. Its primary function remains that of cleansing the hair of accumulated sebum, scalp debris and residues of hair grooming preparations.

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FUNCTIONS OF SHAMPOOS IT SHOULD Effectively and completely remove dust or soil, excessive sebum or other fatty acids Effectively wash the hair. Produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the psychological requirements of the user. Be easily removed by rinsing with water.

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Leave the hair non dry, soft lustrous with good manageability and a minimum of fly- away. Impart a pleasant fragrance to the hair. Not make the hand rough and chapped. Not have any side effects or causes irritation to the skin and eye.

Commonly used ingredients: 

Commonly used ingredients Principle surfactants Secondary surfactant : Germicides and antidandruff agents Conditioning agents Pearlescent agents Sequestrants Thickening agents Colours Perfumes Preservatives

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PRINCIPAL SURFACTANTS Anionic > non-ionic> cationic Alkyl sulphates : SLS, tri &mono LS, alkyl ether sulphate : sodium salts SECONDARY SURFACTANTS Anionic or ampholytic detergents, Mono alkyl sulpho succinates , methyl taurides , turkey red oils, alk -phosphates OTHER ADDITIVES Germicides &anti-dandruff agents Conditioning agents, sequesterants , pearlescent agents, colors, perfumes, preservatives

Types of shampoos : 

Types of shampoos Clear liquid shampoos Liquid cream or lotion shampoo Solid cream shampoo & Gel shampoo Oil shampoo Powder shampoo Dry shampoo Aerosol shampoo

Clear liquid shampoos: 

Clear liquid shampoos Two types Cleansing shampoos Cosmetic shampoos

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Formula for clear liquid shampoo ( cosmetic type)

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Procedure: Mix detergent in water with heat. Other additives in water mixed with the above. Finally add perfume. CLEAR LIQUID SHAMPOOS

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LIQUID CREAM SHAMPOO Procedure: Heat and mix the PEG with a small qty of the detergent to form a mixture. Add more detergent slowly and then water, mixing thoroughly Perfume is added last after cooling to 35 0 C .

SOLID CREAM SHAMPOO AND GEL SHAMPOO: 

SOLID CREAM SHAMPOO AND GEL SHAMPOO Made from sodium lauryl sulphate paste with suitable gelling agent such as sodium stearate .

DRY SHAMPOO : 

DRY SHAMPOO Dry shampoos are powder composition which allows the hair to be cleaned simply by sprinkling absorbent powder onto the greasy hair, leaving it for 10minutes and then brushing it off. The main attraction is that they do not involve the use of water. This process will not remove the set, and there is no loss of curl.

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Procedure: Mix all the ingredients together. Color and preservatives should be dissolved in a small quantity of water. Perfume can be added last. OIL SHAMPOO Use sulphonated oil as detergents They have good cleansing ability to remove dirt and oil from the hair but they do not form foam.

AEROSOL SHAMPOO: 

AEROSOL SHAMPOO N ot a special type of formulation but represent an alternate way of applying the product. Must be stable in presence of propellant gas expensive

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BABY SHAMPOO Less irritating and usually less prone to produce a stinging or burning sensation if it were to get into the eyes.

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example, Johnson & Johnson's Baby Shampoo advertises under the premise NO MORE TEARS This is accomplished by Dilution Adjusting pH Use of surfactants

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ANTI DANDRUFF SHAMPOO contain fungicides such as ketoconazole , zinc pyrithione and selenium sulfide which reduce loose dander by killing Malassezia furfur . Coal tar and salicylate derivatives are often used .

EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO: 

EVALUATION OF SHAMPOO It includes determination of Nonvolatile alcohol soluble matter Active detergent content pH Foam height Dirt dispersion test etc

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1) Determination of pH :Dip 1% shampoo in pH paper and compare with the key strip. 2) Determine % of solids : Weigh shampoo + evaporating dish.Place on hot plate until liquid portion has evaporated.Reweigh the dish.Calculate % of solids. 3) Dirt dispersion : Shampoo + 1 drop of Ink and shake. Estimate amount of ink in foam.

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4) Shake test – determination of foam formation : Place 50 ml shampoo in a graduating cylinder.Note initial volume.Shake it.Record final volume.Calculate foam volume. 5) Foam quality and determination : Immediately after shaking begin timing.Record the volume of foam at 1 minute intervals for 4 minutes.

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8)Performance properties: Here half of the hair is shampooed & the other half is used as control.Compare the two parts by observation & combing and other process. 9) Product characterization : Fragrance should not react with other product characteristics such as colour and must be stable during storage. Color - light,bright ,& eye catching shade,done only with certified dyes. Consistency - compatible with its performance.Consistency range from water like fluidity to immobile creams or gels

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HAIR GROOMING AIDS include: 1) Brilliantines & hair oil 2) Hair setting lotions 3) Hair creams 4) Hair sprays Brilliantines adheres to hair surface & hold it in position and makes them lustrous. Hair setting lotion - set hair for a long time. Hair creams - thick emulsions applied to hairs. Hair sprays- hold the hair setting firmly,in shape & control the loose ends.

HAIR CREAMS: 

HAIR CREAMS Water in oil or oil in water type w/o type have more holding capacity and provide gloss to hair o/w type are less greasy and make hair wet when applied

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WATER-IN-OIL TYPE CREAMS Formula: Bees wax - 3.5 g Mineral oil - 37.5g Paraffin wax - 1g Lime water - 58g Perfume, preservative – q.s Melt bees wax, mineral oil and paraffin wax together at about 70 0 C. Warm the lime water and add slowly to the oil phase with continuous stirring. Add perfume when temperature is about 35 0 C

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OIL-IN-WATER CREAM Formula: mineral oil - 45g Stearic acid - 3.5 g Triethanolamine - 1.5 Water, preservative - q.s Heat mineral oil, stearic acid at about 70 0 C and add triethanolamine . Add water while stirring. Cool and add perfume.

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EVALUATION OF HAIRCREAM 1)Stability of the ingredients : done by normal stability study of the active ingredients at room temperature or by accelerated stability study. 2)Physical stability : important for emulsion type preparations to evaluate the stability of the emulsion creams.This can be done by accelerated test by exposing the preparations alternatively to heat and cold. 3) Rheology : This can be studied by using suitable equipment (viscometer) to measure the viscosity and effect of storage on it .

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4)pH: desirable pH between 5 and 9.Estimated with a calibrated pH meter.The method of determination of pH of o/w and w/o emulsion is to be performed separately. 5)Water content: It is estimated by toluene distillation method.A hair cream should have maximum of 85% of water content. 6)Rancidity: hair cream is shaken with 10ml of concentrated HCl and treated with phloroglucinol solution.The material passes the test if no pink colour is developed

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7)Microbiological test: A known dilution of the sample is plated on soyabean casein digest agar medium,incubated at 32 C for 72 hrs & visual colonies are counted,using a colony counter.The ISI standard does not permit more than 1000 micro organisms per gram

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HAIR WAVERS,CURLERS & HAIR STRAIGHTENERS HAIR WAVERS & CURLERS: curl the hair HAIR STRAIGHTENERS: “ preparations used to straighten the curly or kinky hair by breaking the disulphide linkages of curly hair and reforming them in uncurled shape ”.

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METHODS WAVE SET PREPARATIONS Limited swelling and softening of hairs Setting achieved by evaporation of water Thin film surrounding the hair Setting enhanced by incorporating mucins ( pectin,caragenan ) in setting lotions Disadvantages: (1) Not long-lasting (2) Bonds loosened by moisture

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PERMENANT WAVING SOLUTIONS FORMULA Ammonium carbonates 20.gm Sodium carbonate .45 gm Potassium sulphite 2.0gm Water 74.0gm Perfume q.s Prepared by simple gradual mixing and then making solution .

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Evaluation of permanent waves Wave efficacy : waving effect can be determined on a wave board or a semiautomatic apparatus. Wave board : place the strand of hair to be waved around a number of pins,wet it with a reducing solution for a specific time,then rinse and treat it with the oxidation solution and rinse again.After its removal from the pins,the hair has a zig-zag form.

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Wave strength: Measure the distance between two curve maxima such as the first and the sixth,quantities .The shorter the distance measured,more effective is the permanent wave. Curl retention : Suspend the zig-zag strand with a 50mg weight attached vertically for 1 hr in a cylinder filled with water

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HAIR STRAIGHTENERS Thioglycolate treatment done to straighten the hair by breaking disulphide linkages METHODS (1) Hot comb-pressing oil methods Petroleum jelly applied, combed, washed ,dried (2) Caustic preparation caustic alkali (4- 9%) preparations in cream form (3) Chemical hair reducing agents Thioglycollate reducing agents used

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HAIR STRAIGHTENERS EVALUATION Toxic or side effects : done to evaluate the toxic effects like scalp irritation, damage to the general health,incompatibility due to cross sensitization leading to dermatitis etc; can be done on animal or by patch test on human volunteers. Stability test : done by normal stability test or accelerated stability test.