lip stics

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LIPSTICKS By RAO C.BARU, Asso.Professor, SSJ COLLEGE OF PHARMACY, HYDERABAD.

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Definition: It is a cosmetic preparation used for the modification or accentuation of lip colour and enhancement of facial make-up, prepared by moulding a dispersion of colours in waxy base, in the form of stick or godget cup. 2

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Ideal characteristics: It should efficiently cover lips with colour and impart a gloss which would lost long. It should be maintain the intensity of colour without any alteration in the degree of its shade. It should be able to adhere filmy to the lips and should not provide any greasy appearance. It should possess required plasticity and be able to maintain all properties throughout its storage period. It should be easily dried. It should be safe and non irritating to the lips It should not result in blooming or sweating of the lips. 3

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FORMULATION: Wax mixture Oil mixture Bromo mixture Colors Preservatives Fragrance Antioxidants Surfactants & other additives 4

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WAXES :The gloss & hardness are generally depends on characteristics & quantity of waxes Best characteristic is obtained by using mixture of waxes of different M.P & adjusting the final M.P. by incorporating a sufficient amount of high M.P wax Various waxes used in lipstick : Name of the solid M.P Concentration Use component Range 1.Beeswax 62-64 5-20% Binds oils &higher M.P waxes 2.candililla wax 65-69 5-10% smooth and glossy appearance 3.Carnuaba wax 81-86 1-3% Imparts rigidity &hard ness 4.Ceresin 60-75 5-20% Increase M.P Cetostearyl 5.Stearyl alcohol 43˚c 2-3% Emollient 6.Ozokerite 60-80 1-10% Increase stick rigidity 7.Hard paraffin 50-57 1-5% Strength to stick 8.Soft paraffin 38-56 1-5% Lubricant &spreading property

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OILS : The oil mixture is required to blend properly with the waxes to provide a suitable film on the applied lip skin. Also acts as solvent in some formulation. Acts as dispersing agent for insoluble pigments. The ideal mixture of oil should produce the product, easily spread & produce a thin film with good covering power. Examples: Castor oil, Tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol (THFA) & esters, Fatty acid alkyl amides ,Paraffin oil ,Isopropyl myristate, Isopropyl palmitate, Butyl stearate . 6

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BROMO MIXTURE :Maintain the physical form of the formulation Also called as bromo acids Two classes: Red : gives red or reddish blue stain Orange red : gives pink to yellowish pink stain About 2-3% bromo acids are used in lipstick Solvent used to be mixed with bromo acids. Castor oil & butyl stearate & esters like acetate, stearate & benzoate Glyceryl mono stearate or monolaurate & di ethylene glycol mono stearate PG or PEG Examples of bromo mixture: Bromo acid : 15 gm PG : 200gm PG mono myristate : 100 gm Procedure: Mix bromo acid solution & PG (for clearing each other) Add PG mono myristate Which gives bromo acid that easily mixes with mineral oil & castor oil & produces a homogenous mass with waxes.

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COLORS : Most important from commercial & appearance point of view. In olden days, carmine was widely used, but nowadays various other are available. Color in lipstick is imparted by two ways: By staining the skin with solution of dyestuff which can penetrate the outer layer of skin . By covering the lips with a colored layer which serves to hide any skin roughness & give a smooth appearance .

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SOLUBLE DYES / STAINING DYES : Example: Fluorescein, Eosin INSOLUBLE DYES / NONSTAINING DYES / LAKE COLORS : Example: Lakes of Calcium, Barium, Aluminums, Strontium Used in 10 – 15 % concentration based on shade TiO2 is generally used in conc. of 1% for pink shade PRESERVATIVES : Used to prevent microbial growth Example: 0.1% Propyl parahydrohybenzoate in 0.1% Higher conc. of preservative can cause slightly burning sensation or allergic reaction.

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FRAGRANCE : Essential component of lipstick Used to mask bad odor of fatty or wax Used to impart attractive flavor Conc. 2-4% Qualities for selection: Free from irritating effect. Free from disagreeable taste Stable . compatible with other ingredients. ANTIOXIDANTS : Incorporated to prevent rancidification of oily base during storage. Generally used in combination Example: BHA, BHT, Propyl gal late, Citric acid

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SURFACTANTS & OTHER ADDITIVES: SURFACTANTS : Used to promote wetting & stabilize the dispersion of insoluble pigments in lipstick base ADDITIVES: used for various purposes Oil - soluble sunscreen filter the sunrays & protect lip skin from sun burn. Silicon fluid: used as fixative & prevent colors, from bleeding on lips. PVP: (conc. 0.5 – 1%) film former on lips & reduce allergic reaction of other ingredients in lipstick. Isopropyl linoleate: prevent drying effect.

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FORMULA: Castor oil - 59.4gm Candilla wax -8.0 gm Cetyl acetate &Acetylated lanolin alcohol -5.0gm Propylene glycol monolaurate -5.0gm Lanolin oil - 5.0gm Carnauba wax -2.0gm Microcrystalline wax - 5.0gm Propyl paraben -0.1gm Mica - 7.0gm Titanium dioxide -1.0gm Pigments, Dyes -1.0gm Fragrances - q.s 12

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Manufacturing of Lipsticks: Colour grinding Mixing Moulding Packaging 13

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Mainly three phases involved: oil phase - (60-70%) containing of castor oil, vegetable oil,triglycerides,mineral oils. - wax phase - (22-28%) consisting of bees wax, ozokerite,candilla wax, carnauba wax. - pigment phase- (5-15%) consisting of colour pigments, pearl. 14

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COLOUR GRINDING:- First step is dispersion of colours in oil or complete base to obtain smooth mass, the pigments are powder mass, the particles must be free from agglomerates and completely wetted by oil. by using roller mill pigment in oil suspension passed between cylinders rotating at different speeds. MELTING & MIXING: Preparation of wax phase. Preparation of oil phase. Preparation colour pigments. Final mixing. MOULDING: 15

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FORMULATION RELATED PROBLEMS : Sweating: Most common problem. Caused due to high oil content or inferior oil-blending capacity of the wax composition. It may arise in any climate or temp. range Bleeding: Separation of coloured liquids from the waxy base. It leads to extremely uneven color distribution Blooming: When the surface of the lipstick appears dull instead of desired gloss is called as the problem of blooming. It is chiefly due to higher percentage of cetyl alcohol (> 5%) 16

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Streaking: A thin line or band of different color or substances appears to the surface of finished products. Problem arise due to separation of suspended particles Seams: Marks left on the lipsticks when split moulds are used. They are caused either due to brittle masses or due to faulty cooling technique. 17

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MOULDING RELATED PROBLEMS: Laddering: Product has a ladder like appearance It does not look smooth or homogeneous after congealing & setting but instead a multilayered appearance. Occur due to either mould is kept at a very low temperature or when bulk formulation is not hot enough or filling rate is slow. Deformation: The shape of the lipstick looks deformed. It is most noticeable in softer formulae. Can appear on side of the lipstick or on both the sides. Catering: This effect is mostly found in split mouldings. It shows up in flaming when the stick develops dimples (spots). The main cause is the presence of trace amounts of silicone oils or machinery lubrication oil from manufacturing mixtures or the dispenser mixture. 18

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EVALUATION OF FINISHED PRODUCTS: Colour control. Determination of Melting Point (Heat Test ). Softening Point . Microbial Testing . Rancidity . Rupture Test . Breaking Load Test. 19

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COLOR CONTROL : The dispersion of the pigment is checked stringently when a new batch is manufactured, and the color must be carefully controlled when the lipstick mass is reheated. Colorimetric equipment is used to provide some control on the shades of lipstick. Matching of reheated batches is done visually. 20

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DETERMINATION OF M.P. : The lipstick base should have a M.P. between 55 - 750C. (600 C ideal) METHOD: Sample- approx. 50 mg Melt & fill into a glass capillary tube open on both the ends. Cool the capillary tube with ice for 2 hours Fasten the capillary tube to a thermometer. Place a beaker full of water on a heating plate with a magnetic stirrer. Start heating & stirring at slow & fixed speed. The temp at which material moves along the capillary tube is considered its M.P 21

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SOFTENING POINT : . It should be resistant to varying temp & be just as easy to apply in the hot as in cold weather. Softening point range 50-550C Ring & Ball Method: A ring or support orifice is taken & the lipstick to be tested is inserted into it. Extra mass above & below the orifice is removed using a sharp blade leaving a tablet of lipstick fitted into the ring. This is placed in refrigerator (60C) for about 10 min. Ring is tied onto a stand or bar. 22

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MICROBIAL TESTING : The test consists of plating a known mass of the sample on two selected culture media specifically suitable for the growth of bacteria & fungi & incubating them for a specified period to permit the development of visual colonies for counting. RANCIDITY : Rancidification is the decomposition of fats, oils and other lipids by hydrolysis or oxidation. Testing of rancidity can be done by determining its peroxide number. 23

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BREAKING LOAD TEST : The test is to find out the value of maximum load that a lipstick can withstand before it breaks. The protruded lipstick salve is subjected to a number of weights hanging from it. The weight at which the lipsticks breaks is its Breaking Load. RUPTURE TEST : In the Rupture Test, the lipstick is placed in two holders, in the extended position. Weight is added to the holder on the lipstick portion at 30-second intervals until the lipstick ruptures. The pressure required to rupture the lipstick is then checked against the manufacturer's standards. Since there are no industry standards for these tests, each manufacturer sets its own parameters. 24