Culinary Mythbusters: Culinary Mythbusters Hinnerk von Bargen Jeff Cousminer Dolf DeRovira Eric Sparks
Schedule: Schedule 9:30 – 9:45 Culinary Myths Questionnaire
9:45 –11:00 Let’s bust some myths
11:00-11:10 Stretch Break
11:10-12:15 Keep on Busting
12:15- 12:30 Q&A
Myth or Reality?: Myth or Reality? Searing meats seals in juices.
Baking soda in fridge or freezer absorbs odors.
All thickening agents are the same.
Use water instead of milk for tender eggs.
Alcohol evaporates completely during cooking.
Avocado pits prevent browning in guacamole.
Salting meat prior to cooking dries it out.
Foods made with mayonnaise are quick to spoil.
Myth or Reality, cont.: Myth or Reality, cont. Washing mushrooms causes them to absorb a lot of water.
Adding oil to pasta water keeps noodles from sticking together.
Acid in salad dressing causes the greens to wilt.
Refrigerating onions prevents teary eyes when cutting.
Cold water boils faster than warm water.
Never add salt in the beginning when cooking dried beans.
This session will enable you to:: This session will enable you to: Elaborate about common misunderstandings in food preparation
Avoid time consuming mistakes based on culinary myths
Understand culinary arts as an interesting mixture of science and arts
Spread the word that searing meat does not seal in the juices
Today’s Myths: Today’s Myths Avocado Browning
Acid Tenderization
Seasoning Dry Out
The Searing Myth
Acid Wilting
Color Retention
Mushroom Sponges
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “If you leave the pit of the avocado in the guacamole, it will retard the enzymatic browning!”
“REALLY?” Eric Sparks C.E.C. Director of Product Development Park 100 Foods
Avocado Myth – What is Guacamole? : Avocado Myth – What is Guacamole? Mashed Avocados
Salt, Acid (Lime/Lemon), Spices, Tomato
Avocado Myth – The Experiment : Avocado Myth – The Experiment Cut and mash avocados in two separate containers.
One with Pit
One without
One with a make believe “pit” (golf ball?)
Check throughout the day
First some background on types of Browning: First some background on types of Browning Maillard - chemical interactions between sugars and proteins
Searing of meat – see Hinnerk
Storing of dry milk
Enzymatic - a discoloration in fruits and vegetables such as apples, bananas, pears,eggplants,raw potatoes, and avocados….is known as……
Polyphenoloxidase: Polyphenoloxidase
Oxidizes phenolic compounds in the tissue and causes them to condense into brown or gray polymers
Present in mushrooms,apricots,cherries, and peaches
Not present in citrus fruits, melons, or tomatoes
Handling Enzymatic Browning: Handling Enzymatic Browning
Chilling below 40°F
Boiling the product – but this alters the texture and flavor
Salt solutions – effects flavor
Immersing in cold water – cuts off oxygen to enzyme
Addition of Sulfur compounds – dried fruits
Addition of an acid
Citric acid – lemon juice
Malic acid – apples and grapes
Ascorbic acid – vitamin C
Background on Avocados: Background on Avocados
Cultivate in Central America for about 7000 years
First seen in the U.S. in 1800’s
California – largest producer in the U.S. @95%
San Diego county is responsible for 80%
Over 80 different varieties – Hass #1
Common varieties of Avocados: Common varieties of Avocados Fuerte – smooth skin and creamy pale flesh
Gwen – considered a Hass by some but skin remains green when ripe
Hass – most common, purple black skin which darkens and creamy pale green flesh – only variety available year round
Pinkerton – long pear shaped – available winter thru spring
Reed – Summertime –large round and thick skin, avail. Only summer and early fall
Zutano – shiny yellow green skin – same color when ripe
Avocados: Avocados
Fat content - 20% - “poor man’s butter”
Rich in vitamin B6,C, & E
Contain 60% more potassium then bananas
Excellent source of dietary fiber and monounsaturated fat
Sugar content decreases during ripening
Will not ripen on the tree unless skin is broken
Must be cut from the tree to begin ripening
Storing & Ripening Avocados: Storing & Ripening Avocados
In able to metabolize anaerobically (without oxygen) – the ripening process is stopped
But when oxygen is restored – the avocado will spoil
Do not store under refrigeration – results are discoloration and off-flavors
Store at room temperature – 70°F until soft
Place in paper bag with an apple for 2-3 days
Ready when yield to gentle pressure
Slide20: Q: Do Avocado Pits Left In Guacamole Retard Browning? A: No!
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “If you add an acid to a food it will help tenderize it!”
“REALLY?” J. Jeffrey Cousminer Director of Flavor and Product Development Savory Foods Firmenich
Acid Tenderization: Acid Tenderization Examples of Preparations Containing Acid:
Ceviche
Sauerbraten
Acid Marinades
Baked Beans
Acidic Poaching Liquids – Court Boullion
What is an Acid and What Does It Do In Foods?: What is an Acid and What Does It Do In Foods? Acid – pH 0-7.0
Responsible for the “Sour” taste.
Denatures Proteins
Retards Maillard and Enzymatic Browning
Helps Caramelization Browning
Tightens Cellulose - Baked Beans don’t fall apart.
Retards the growth of Non-Acidophilic Microorganisms.
pH Chart; 7.0=Neutral“Pure Water”: pH Chart; 7.0=Neutral “Pure Water” pH 0= Battery Acid
pH 1= Stomach Acid
pH 2= Lemon Juice
pH 3= OJ, Vinegar
pH 4= Tomato Juice, Soda
pH 5= Black Coffee
pH 6= Milk, Saliva pH 8= Egg Whites
pH 9= Baking Soda
pH 10= Tums
pH 11= Ammonia
pH 12= Soapy Water
pH 13= Bleach
pH 14= Liquid Drano
Common Acids in Food: Common Acids in Food Acetic (vinegar)
Ascorbic (Vitamin. C)
Benzoic (preservative)
Citric (citrus fruits)
Carbonic (sodas)
Glutamic (“umami”)
Lactic (cheese & dairy)
Malic (apples) Nicotinic (niacin)
Oxalic (spinach, rhubarb)
Phosphoric (sodas)
Propionic (preservative)
Sorbic (preservative)
Stearic (fatty acid)
Tannic (wine, tea)
Tartaric (grapes)
Acid Tenderization -The Experiment-: Acid Tenderization -The Experiment- Ceviche will be used to demonstrate the effect of acid.
Ceviche is Lime Juice marinated seafood eaten uncooked.
Compare two batches of ceviche
One with two hours marination beforehand.
One with little marination
Ceviche Recipe: Ceviche Recipe Ingredients
1 lb seafood, cut as desired
1 tomato, roasted, p&s
2 jalapenos, roasted, p&s
2 red bell peppers, roasted, p&s
½ red onion, roasted
¾ cup lime juice
½ cup orange juice
¼ cup tomato juice
1 tblspn sugar
1-2 tspn Goya Adobo seasoning
Hot sauce to taste
Preparation
Place seafood in non-reactive container. Place all other ingredients in blender and liquefy. Pour over seafood, mix well and allow to marinate in refrigerator for several hours.
For service, strain liquid and blend with seafood at last minute: 2 Tbsp each of minced chive and cilantro.
Ceviche Experimental Results: Ceviche Experimental Results Which is tougher, long acidic marination or short acidic marination?
Does acid tenderize foods?
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “Salting Ahead Of Time Will Dry Out The Meat!”
“REALLY?” Eric Sparks, C.E.C. Director of Product Development Park 100 Foods
What Is Salt And What Does It Do For Food?: What Is Salt And What Does It Do For Food? Salts product of acid/base neutralization
Sodium chloride most common
Denatures & helps dissolve proteins
Hydroscopic / water binding
Capable of drying out foods
Retards growth of microorganisms
Can make food taste good & enhance all other flavor aspects
Helps set up Maillard browning (bread)
Salt Changes Food: Salt Changes Food Draws out water, blood, other impurities
Preserves food by making less susceptible to spoilage
Plays a very important role in Osmosis, Dehydration, Fermentation, and Denaturing Proteins
What is Seasoning?: What is Seasoning? Salt
Herbs
Spices
Sweeteners
Smoke
Color
Purees
Basic Seasoning vs. Rub: Basic Seasoning vs. Rub
Salt - Osmosis: Salt - Osmosis Salt applied to meat causes the fluid inside the cells to travel outside in an effort to dilute the salt on the other side.
Once there is more fluid on the outside of the cell then inside, the fluid returns back to the interior taking the dissolved salt with it.
Now the salt is inside the cell, killing harmful pathogens
This is the essence of Salt-Curing foods
Salt - Dehydration: Salt - Dehydration Appling salt attracts free water, which if left alone will help with microbial action/growth
Exposure to air or heat allows the water to evaporate, which results in weight loss and yield loss
Salt - Fermentation: Salt - Fermentation Enzymes feed on compounds found in energy-rich foods like meats and grains
They breakdown the compounds into gases and organic compounds
If this process is left unchecked the fermentation process would completely break down the food
Salt helps to control the amount of available water for the enzymes to use, therefore preventing fermentation from getting out of hand
Salt – Denaturing Proteins: Salt – Denaturing Proteins When referring to preserving foods, the structure of the proteins is changed, this is called “denaturing”
Protein strands are encouraged to lengthen or coil, open or close, in such a way that..
Soft foods become firm
Smooth foods become grainy
Firm foods become soft
Cerviche and cooking meats
Seasoned Steak Results: Seasoned Steak Results Seasoned 7 hours in advance of cooking
No noticeable drying
Slight color change
Noticeable moisture retention difference
Flavor slightly more concentrated
Cooked Seasoned: Cooked Seasoned
Rub Results: Rub Results Rubbed 7 hours in advance of cooking
Definitely outer surface development of firmness under the rub
Slight grayness in outer 1/8” surface layer when cooked
Color retention acceptable
Caution taken in cooking not to overcook
Flavor excellent
Rub After Seven Hours: Rub After Seven Hours
Cooked Rub: Cooked Rub
Does Seasoning Ahead of Time Dry out the Meat?: Does Seasoning Ahead of Time Dry out the Meat? Typical seasoning - No
Rub - depending on salt percentage and period of time allowed to rest prior to initiating cooking - Yes
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “Proper Searing of Meat Seals in the Juices!”
“REALLY?” Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE Associate Professor The Culinary Institute of America
What Is Searing And Why Is It Done?: What Is Searing And Why Is It Done? Application of high dry heat to the surface of a food.
Conductive or Radiant Heat
Flavor color & texture development
Maillard reaction and caramelization
Development of pan drippings for sauce (fond)
Lock in juices????
Methods Which Can Include Searing: Methods Which Can Include Searing Roasting
Braising
Sautéing
Important Steps for Sautéing : Important Steps for Sautéing Heat pan
Add small amount of fat
Add seasoned main item
Dust with flour?
Sear /turn once
Cook to desired doneness
Oven?
Remove from pan
Prepare sauce utilizing deglazed fond
Serve immediately
Important Steps for Roasting: Important Steps for Roasting Preheat oven
Season
Elevate item to be roasted
Searing?
Roast uncovered
Add mirepoix
Rest
Prepare sauce from Drippings
Carve
Important Steps in Braising: Important Steps in Braising Season
Sear if desired
Add appropriate amount of liquid
Add aromatics
Cover cooking vessel
Simmer very slow on the stove or in the oven
Prepare sauce from cooking liquid
Searing Myth Experiment: Searing Myth Experiment Weigh each steak first
Two equal sized steaks cooked to the same internal temperature
One seared over very high heat
One not seared
Weigh after cooking
Taste for juiciness
Does Searing Seal in the Juices?: Does Searing Seal in the Juices? Nein!
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “Acid In Salad Dressings Makes The Lettuce Wilt?”
“REALLY?” Dolf DeRovira President/Owner Flavor Dynamics
Edible Greens: Edible Greens What are greens?
Edible leafy parts of vegetables
Collect sunlight for photosynthesis
Cooking Greens
Mustard Greens, Collard, Dandelion, etc.
Naturally tender and palatable greens
Lettuce, arugula
Tend to wilt very easily
Why Do Greens Wilt?: Why Do Greens Wilt? Osmotic pressure from the inside of the cell leeches out water.
This happens with salt.
Pressure / Bruising
Oil enters the intercellular structure weighing down the leaves.
What would acid do?
Wilting Experiment: Wilting Experiment Two batches of lettuce
One submerged in oil
One submerged in vinegar
Leave in the liquids for at least 30 minutes
Visual Comparison
Salad Dressings: Salad Dressings The successful pairing of a sauce with any food demonstrates an understanding of the food and the ability to judge and evaluate a dish’s flavors, textures and colors.
Considerations for Salad Dressings: Considerations for Salad Dressings What does the sauce bring to the dish?
How does it function in the total composition?
How does it taste?
Sauces should not be an afterthought They add flavor, color, texture, sheen and moisture to a dish.
Salad Dressings: Salad Dressings Vinaigrette
Vinegar, oil, aromatics
3:1 ?????
Broken vs. Emulsified
Appropriate greens? Creamy Dressing
Thicker
Dairy??
Mayonnaise based
Appropriate greens?
Vinaigrette: Vinaigrette 3:1 ratio of oil and vinegar??
Endless variations using different oils, vinegars and ethnic
Juices, oils, infused oils, flavored oils.
Reduced stock or glace can be used instead of egg yolks as an emulsifier.
Reduced fat versions can be made…
Mayonnaise Based: Mayonnaise Based Mayonnaise can be the base of any number of sauces because of its neutral qualities.
Can also be “lightened” with whipped cream.
Might not be used as much today for reasons of fat reduction.
Dairy Based:: Dairy Based: Made from sour cream, créme fraîche, mascarpone, yogurt, buttermilk, ricotta or other soft cheeses.
Various flavorings
Cheese, citrus, vegetables, herbs, pickles and other condiments
May be mixed with mayonnaise.
Can be used as dressing or dips.
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “Salt Helps To Retain The Color When Parboiling Green Vegetables!”
“REALLY?” Dolf DeRovira President/Owner Flavor Dynamics
Chlorophyll: Chlorophyll The pigment in vegetables which converts solar energy into carbohydrates.
Photosynthesis versus respiration
Soluble Mainly in Fat – some fractions in water
Sensitive to heat (7 minute rule)
Acid dulls it to Khaki Green
Alkali and copper ions brightens it
Salt preserves it???
Salt and Color Experiment: Salt and Color Experiment Two batches of beans
One in large amount of well salted water
One in large amount of non-salted water
One in small amount of non-salted water
One in small amount of salted water
How To Retain ColorWhen Cooking Green Vegetables : How To Retain Color When Cooking Green Vegetables Sufficient amount of water
Rapidly boiling water
Do not overcook
(Shock in salted ice water)
No Acid
Uncovered
Do not reuse the water more than three times.
No aluminum cooking vessel
Myths We Want To Break: Myths We Want To Break “Mushrooms Should Never Be Washed Because They Absorb All The Water And Become Spongy!”
“REALLY?” Hinnerk von Bargen, CHE Associate Professor The Culinary Institute of America
What Are Mushrooms?: What Are Mushrooms? Fungi
Low on the evolutionary scale equivalent to molds and yeasts.
Unique among the plant kingdom
High protein
Low P.E.R. Protein Equivalency Rating
Protein Is Encased in Chitin (Insect Armor) Difficult to Digest
High Water Content
Over 90%
How To Cook Mushrooms: How To Cook Mushrooms Wash
Cut Not Too Small
Excessive Shrinkage During Cooking
Sauté In Small Amount of Fat Over High Heat
Browning and Flavor Development
Season At The End
Salt Draws Out the Water – Remember?
Temperatures Too Low (Boiling Rather Than Maillard)
Soggy Mushroom Experiment: Soggy Mushroom Experiment Weigh One Pound of Mushrooms
Wash by submerging in water
Spin Dry
Weigh Again
Do Fresh Mushrooms Soak Up Water Like A Sponge?: Do Fresh Mushrooms Soak Up Water Like A Sponge? Nein!
Slide71: Annual Conference & Tradeshow
March 9-12, 2006
Houston, Texas Visit us at www.culinology.org
Any Questions?