Herbal cosmetics

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Presented by: Chandresh Dwivedi Herbal cosmetics, Potential adverse effects Merits and Demerits

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1.Introduction 2.Classification A. Skin cosmetics Cream Lip balm Powder Lotion & Liniment Face pack Deodorant & antiperspirant Bath preparation B.Hair cosmetics Shampoo C. Tooth cosmetics Mouth wash Dentifrices D. Nail preparation E. Shaving preparations F. Foot preparations 3. Adverse effect of Herbal cosmetics 4. Merits 5. Demerits 6. References contents


INTRODUCTION Definition of cosmetic: FD &C act defines cosmetics by their intended use, as articles intended to be rubbed. Poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on, introduced in to, or otherwise applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting, attractiveness, or altering the appearance. HERBAL COSMECEUTICALS: Cosmetics containing an active ingredient obtained from plant origin. Objectives: To enhance the general appearance of face and other body parts to minimize the skin defects to a considerable extent Psychological, social and clinical application.

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The main function of this covering is to protect body, eliminate waste material & regulate body temperature. Creams semi-solid emulsions that is mixtures of oil and water Uses of creams Ideal characteristic Protect the skin Non toxic Retention of moisture Easily spreads Cleansing Remains stable Emollient effects Not too hygroscopic As barrier with sunscreens Easy to remove Skin cosmetics

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According to emulsion phase W/O creams eg: Cold cream, Emollient cream O/W creams Eg: Shaving cream, foundation cream, Vanishing cream 2. According to functional aspect Cold & cleansing creams Night & Nourishing creams Vanishing & Foundation creams All –purpose cream Others : Anti-acne, anti-wrinkle cream Classification of creams

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Invented by Galen: Galen's cold cream was based on beeswax and water, also containing olive oil and rose petals for softness and scent. It is an emulsion of water and certain fats (W/O) Normally following base are used: Almond oil, white bees wax Borax (used as emulsifier),Rose water Method of preparation: Dissolve borax in hot rose water. Melt various waxes together keeping the temp. about 70C. Mix both the oil & water phase at same temp. with constant stirring. Mix without heat for 1 hrs &when cool (45-50C), add perfume For example: Nyle cold cream (Red apple extract) Cold Cream

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o/w Creams When applied to the skin leave an almost invisible layer on it. Produce emollient and moisturizing effect. Method: Melt stearic acid & lanolin. Mix water, glycerine, extract & triethanolamine &warm to same temp. as that of melted stearic acid and lanolin. Mix with continuous stirring. Add preservative &perfume. Mix them thoroughly in order to obtain a uniform product Jojoba vanishing cream: Stearic acid, Glycerin, Lanolin, Triethanolamine, Natural jojoba extract, Preservative, Water, perfume. Vanishing creams

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It is non greasy &provides nourishment & protection to the skin. Example: Nourishing skin cream (Himalaya) Ingredients: Aloe vera (Nourishes & moisturizes the skin) Indian Kino tree, Ashwaganda (Protect skin from pollution & dry weather) Gotu Kola (May increases the production of collagen) Other Ingredients: Liquid paraffin, Glycerin,BHT, Sodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben,etc. Nourishing Creams

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Nourishes the skin all night with revitalizers, nutrients & moisturizers. It provides moisture to the skin by preventing evaporation. Example: Revitalizing night cream(Himalaya) Composition: Pyrus malus (Crab Apple): Cooling, Soothing and Keratolytic Triticum sativum (Wheat): Preventing black heads. Citrus limon (Lemon):It protects the skin from oxidative damage Lilium polyphyllum (White Lily): Astringent Solanum lycopersicum (Tomato):Antioxidant Night Cream

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A great moisturizer for dry skin that helps heal, repair, and maintain soft, supple skin. Increasing skin hydration (by reducing evaporation) E.g.: Aloe moisturizing cream Method of formulation: Heat coconut oil & beeswax until wax melt. Stir & cool slowly add the aloe vera gel a drop at a time. Continue stirring & when the mixture thickens, add the vitamin oil & chamomile extract. Moisturizer Cream

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It acts as a superficial disease that affects the hair follicles and oil secreting glands of the skin. Example: Himalaya acne –n pimple cream Anti-acne cream

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Sunscreen cream are those topical preparations which protect the skin by harmful sunlight either by scatter sunlight or to absorb erythemogenic radiations. Examples of Sunscreen cream: Aloe vera Fat-soluble walnut extract Bees wax Hydrogenated ricinus oil Sunburn Creams

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It delays wrinkles and smoothes fine lines. Regular use prevents oxidative skin damage. Anti-Wrinkle Cream

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It inhibits the formation of melanin. It reduces pigmentation. E.g. 1.Himalaya Fairness Cream 2.Fair & lovely fairness cream Fairness Cream

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It prevents chapping, drying & cracking of the lips. It contains a natural UV filter and Vit.E which nourishes, tones and softens the lips. Lip balm

Lotion : 

Lotion A lotion is a low- to medium-viscosity, topical preparation intended for application to unbroken skin; creams and gels have a higher viscosity. It is applied without friction. Most lotions are oil-in-water emulsions. Lotions can be used for the delivery to the skin of medications such as: Antibiotics ,Antiseptics ,Antifungal ,Corticosteroids ,Anti-acne agents Soothing, smoothing, moisturizing or protective agents.

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The raw materials used in making the lotion includes

Face packs : 

Face packs It stimulates the blood circulation, tone the muscles and maintain the elasticity of the skin. Also they draw out impurities from the pores. E.g.1. Neem Face Pack(Himalaya) 2. Apricot Face Pack


COSMETICS FOR HAIR Shampoo: liquid, creamy or gel-like Cleansing of hair without leaving the hair greasy & dry. Not produce irritation in eye, Contain an effective germicide, fungicide or antiseptic, Easy to remove Reduce the degree of itching, scaling and inflammation Ingredients use in shampoos: Surfactants: Anionic surfactants superior foaming properties and low cost E.g Alkyl benzene sulphonates Cationic surfactants- They produce good foam, leave hair lustrous and have good. E.g. Cetyl pyridinum salts Amphoteric surfactants-E.g. n-alkyl amino acids good cleansing and foaming properties


SHAMPOO……. B) Conditioning agent: Mineral oil, lanolin C) Viscosity modifiers: NaCl, Natural gums Thickening of shampoo D) Opacifying agents: TiO2 E) Sequestering agent: EDTA F) Preservatives: Methyl/propyl parabens G) Perfumes: H) Antimicrobials- Thymol Classified according to function as: Protein shampoo Anti dandruff shampoo Conditioning shampoo

Protein shampoo(Himalaya) : 

Protein shampoo(Himalaya) USES: Shikakai and ushira- soften the hair Musk roof- promotes hair growth Soapnut- hair from excessive oil secretion, dirt, dust Fenugreek- provide natural proteins

Anti-dandruff shampoo : 

Anti-dandruff shampoo E.g. Ayush antidandruff shampoo: Significance of each extract: Rusmari- destroys dandruff Neem- protects from germs Tulsi- protects from germs Shikakai- cleanses and conditions hair Amla- strengtns hair, Henna- provides rich and healthy shine

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To enhance untangling of wet hair and improve manageability of both wet and hair. Formulation of conditioning shampoo Conditioning shampoo


HAIR COLORANTS: Hair dye should possess following characteristics: It should be non-injurious to the hair shaft It should possess no systemic toxic effect or irritation when applied to the hair It should have affinity for hair keratin Some herbs used to color the hair include: Eclipta alba: Whole plant extract is useful for hair nourishment and dyeing Juglans regia:Leaves and haul of fruits for hair dyeing Lawsonia inermis (henna), Acacia katechu, Emblica officinalis (amla) Tea leaves


TOOTH PREPARATIONS To prevent and control of teeth disorders, which include dentifrices and mouthwash DENTIFRICES: The basic requirements of a dentifrice are- 1. To remove food debris, plaque and stain. 2. It should leave the mouth with a fresh, clean sensation. 3. It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use. Various botanicals used in preparation of dentifrices a


TOOTH PASTE To remove adherent soiling matter from a hard surface with minimal damage


METHOD OF FORMULATION: The hydration of the gelling agent Dispersion of the abrasive in gel To add the active ingredients late in the mixing cycle Add the surface active agent Flavor last of all. For example – 1.Neem herbal toothpaste Ingredients : Calcium carbonate,sorbitol, fennel (Foeniculum vulgare),clove bud (Eugenia caryophyllus),Neem leaf(azadirachta indica),and neem bark,peppermint (mentha piperita),essential oils,ascorbic acid (vitamin C)

Mouth washes : 

Mouth washes To give a healthier and fresher mouth and to provide some assurance of good breath odour. For example: Thera neem herbal mouthwash Ingredients: Deionized water, certified organic aloe barbadensis gel, super critical extracts of mentha piperata, azadirachta indica leaf and bark, Eugenia caryophilous, ascorbic acid, xylitol, potassium sorbate,

Nail preparations : 

Nail preparations Nail Enamels: Nitrocellulose Solvent, like toluene Pigments: minerals or organic lakes Plasticizer like DEP, camphor Resin for film strength and flexibility: Toluene Sulfonamide Formaldehyde, Nail cream- Nails can become brittle due to dehydration. Nail creams contain an emmolient like olive oil and lanolin

Shaving preparations : 

Shaving preparations Shaving cream: A good shaving cream should have following characteristics: It must give an abundant lather It must remain soft in tube It must tacky to adhere to both brush & face For example: Stearic acid, Mineral oil, Beeswax, Menthol, Soap flakes, Water

After shave preparations : 

After shave preparations To relieve slight irritation after shaving. To recover injury after shaving. Humectants and emollients-like glycerol and sorbitol etc Cooling effect of skin is achieved by adding menthol Astringency is achieved by adding witch hazel extract and zinc Eg. Nivea after shave lotion Contains: chamomile, vitamin E, and provitamin B5. Calms skin helps to prevent irritations.

Foot preparation : 

Foot preparation Bacteria staphylococcus epidermidis giving rise to bad odors. Himalaya’s foot cream


ADVERSE EFFECTS OF HERBAL COSMETICS Various adverse effects may occur in the form of acute toxicity, percutaneous absorption, skin irritation, eye irritation, skin sensitization and photosensitization, subchronic toxicity, mutagenicity/genotoxicity, and phototoxicity/photoirritation. Most of herbal remedies can cause allergic reaction and several can be responsible for photosensitization. Many cosmetic preparation are made up of more than one ingredient, in such case it is difficult to identify the actual ingredient which cause irritation to the skin.



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1.More convenient than synthetic cosmetics. E.g. Aloe vera is mostly used as different form. It is economic also. 2.Less side effect than synthetic cosmetics 3.Easy to formulate them. 4.Most acceptable by peoples.

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1. IRRITATION AND SENSITIZATION IN SKIN 2.TOXIC EFFECTS OF HERBS 3.Due to presence of heavy metal they have carcinogenic property, some other long term problem may occur, if using regularly. Due to this reason FDA, not approve all herbal cosmetics, use for USA. 4. Small content of cosmetics achieve by lot of herbal mass. 5 No efficient regulatory control. 6. Plants having different species due to this drug content also vary species to species & place to place. DEMERITS OF HERBAL COSMETICS

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1.Wilkinson J.B., Moore R.J., ‘Harry`s cosmeticology’ 7th edition. 2. Poucher W.A., ‘perfumes, cosmetics and soaps’. Volume-3 3. Kapoor V.P. “Herbal Cosmetics for Skin and Hair Care, Natural product Radiance. July 2005,Volume-4 Page no: 306-314. 4. www.himalayahealthcare.com 5. www.fao.org 6.www.healthy.net References

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Thank you

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