Understanding the governance of fashion production in the footwear industry : Understanding the governance of fashion production in the footwear industry From a firm centred approach to the analysis of the innovation system of the footwear production


Slide2: Technological Development and Research New Materials Machinery and Equipment Industries Footwear components Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and Design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Distribution networks and logistics Consumption Markets - Retailing networks Consumption Subsystem Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Gatekeepers Footwear-Fashion Innovation System: Three main Subsystems and dominant connections: (What influences what in terms of fashion production?)


Slide3: ECCO Group - Industrial Organisation HQ - Denmark Industrial strategy based upon Brand/ Product concept Multi-plant corporation Part-process spatial structure of production


Slide4: New Materials Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and Design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Consumption Markets - Retailing networks Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Technological Development and Research Footwear components Distribution networks and logistics Machinery and Equipment Industries Own resources - very strong control Own resources - strong control Partnership Consumption Subsystem ECCO Group: Position within the footwear fashion innovation system (In which axes does the firm exercise any sort of control?) Machinery-Equipment Fairs


Slide5: AEROSOLES PORTUGAL Group - Industrial Organisation HQ - Northern Portugal Industrial strategy based upon Brand (license) / Product concept Ukraine (Subcontracting) Footwear production Poland (Subcontracting) Portugal (AEROSOLES Grp. factories) Portugal (Subcontracting) Multi-plant corporation Strong national and international subcontracting links Vietnam (Subcontracting)


Slide6: New Materials Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and Design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Consumption Markets - Retailing networks Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Technological Development and Research Footwear components Distribution networks and logistics Machinery and Equipment Industries Own resources - strong control Own resources - medium control Partnership Consumption Subsystem AEROSOLES PORTUGAL Group: Position within the footwear fashion innovation system (In which axes does the firm exercise any sort of control?) Machinery-Equipment Fairs


Slide7: Very small in-house department Dependent and imitative strategies of creativity Fashion sources CAMPOR - Industrial Organisation HQ - Northern Portugal Industrial strategy based upon Brand (license) / Product concept Footwear production Portugal (Campor factory) Portugal (Subcontracting single tasks) single-plant enterprise regional subcontracting links


Slide8: New Materials Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and Design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Consumption Markets - Retailing networks Consumption Subsystem Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Technological Development and Research Footwear components Distribution networks and logistics Machinery and Equipment Industries CAMPOR: Position within the footwear fashion innovation system (In which axes does the firm exercise any sort of control?) Own resources - weak control Machinery-Equipment Fairs


Slide9: 1) Very small in-house department; 2) Link to an Italian Design Office (contract); 3) Partnership with a Portuguese Designer Fashion sources EVEREST - Industrial Organisation HQ - Northern Portugal Industrial strategy based upon Quality of the product /comfort Footwear production Portugal (Everest factory) single-plant enterprise Very dependent from outside firm creativity


Slide10: New Materials Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and Design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Consumption Markets - Retailing networks Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Technological Development and Research Footwear components Distribution networks and logistics Machinery and Equipment Industries EVEREST: Position within the footwear fashion innovation system (In which axes does the firm exercise any sort of control?) Own resources - weak control Consumption Subsystem Machinery-Equipment Fairs


Slide11: Italian Stylist Fashion sources J. SAMPAIO andamp; IRMÃOS - Industrial Organisation HQ - Northern Portugal Industrial strategy based upon Flexible system of production Footwear production Portugal (J. Sampaio factory) single-plant enterprise Portugal (Subcontracting - heavily dependent) Copy from others manufacturers (Imitative strategy ) +


Slide12: New Materials Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Consumption Markets - Retailing networks J. SAMPAIO andamp; IRMÃOS: Position within the footwear fashion innovation system (In which axes does the firm exercise any sort of control?) Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Technological Development and Research Footwear components Distribution networks and logistics Machinery and Equipment Industries Machinery-Equipment Fairs Consumption Subsystem


Slide13: Strong capacity of innovation and creativity Fashion sources CALZEUS - Industrial Organisation HQ - Northern Portugal Industrial strategy based upon design, branding, produt concept Footwear production (based on small batch production) Portugal (Calzeus factory) single-plant enterprise Portugal (Outsourced) Strong partnerships with independent Designers (Japan, England)


Slide14: New Materials Labour Market Industrial Policies Colours and shape committees Schools of fashion and Design Fashion Trends Offices Designers/ Stylists Fashion Media Fashion Subsystem Manufacturing Subsystem Consumption Markets - Retailing networks Social and cultural context Footwear Fashion Fairs Technological Development and Research Footwear components Distribution networks and logistics Machinery and Equipment Industries Consumption Subsystem CALZEUS: Position within the footwear fashion innovation system (In which axes does the firm exercise any sort of control?) Machinery-Equipment Fairs Own resources - very strong control Own resources - strong control Own resources - medium control


Knowledge Governance in the footwear industryThe fashion case: Footwear manufacturing Knowledge Governance in the footwear industry The fashion case Partnership associations (strong networking) Cost saving associations (weak networking) price, capacity to answer orders timely and according to technological requirements Local - very often Low wage countries Unskilled/ordinary tasks Asymmetric relations of power (industrial, knowledge, technology) Capacity of innovate and development assistance Non-local (inter-regional/national) highly developed regions Strategic phases/processes of production (More) balanced relations of power (industrial, knowledge, technology) In-house abilities (competence, development, creativity) Retailing networks domination Branding