TARAparrotcare

WHAT IS TARA?: 

WHAT IS TARA? Tucson Avian Rescue and Adoption Foundation (TARA) is an all-volunteer 501 (c) 3 group devoted to the welfare of captive parrots and other exotic birds.

TARA’S HISTORY: 

TARA’S HISTORY Since its founding in 1998, TARA has found new homes for over 500 abused, neglected, and abandoned birds. TARA currently finds new homes for 50 to 100 birds per year.

TARA’S GOALS: 

TARA’S GOALS A. Public Education on exotic birds and their care B. Helping bird owners resolve problems with their birds rather than giving them up C. Placement of rescued birds in new homes with loving, knowledgeable caregivers

Slide4: 

TARA finds people for birds, not birds for people.

Why Adopt and Not Buy?: 

Why Adopt and Not Buy? You’ll be aiding a helpless creature who is homeless through no fault of his or her own You’ll feel good about it You’ll be helping to reduce the number of unwanted, neglected and abused birds

Why Adopt? (cont’d): 

Why Adopt? (cont’d) You’ll help reduce cruelty. Many bad breeders keep breeder birds in horrendous conditions in “bird mills.” Even many “good” breeders kill their breeder birds when they’re no longer productive.

THE ADOPTION PROCESS: 

THE ADOPTION PROCESS Parrot care class Home visit Pay half of adoption fee Take bird home for trial period Pay remainder of fee after two months or return bird for a refund

TARA Adoption Fees(as of December 2006): 

TARA Adoption Fees (as of December 2006) Budgies: $25 Lovebirds & Cockatiels: $75 Ringnecks, Conures & Quakers: $175 Poicephalus, Pionus, Alexandrines & Lories: $250 Small Amazons: $300 Large Amazons, African Greys, Mini-Macaws, Eclectus & Small Cockatoos: $350 Macaws & Large Cockatoos: $400

Why you should NOT get a parrot: 

Why you should NOT get a parrot They’re high maintenance and often very demanding They’re loud, they bite, and they scream They hold grudges — for years They’ll destroy your house — your furniture, cabinets, books, CDs, remotes, etc., etc. They’re expensive to maintain properly

NUTRITION : 

NUTRITION In the wild, most parrots eat very low‑fat, low‑protein diets, and are extremely well adapted to such diets. For this reason, we recommend the following diet:

Good Foods: 

Good Foods Vegetables, vegetables, and more vegetables. Especially vegetables high in Vitamin A, such as broccoli, red chard, red kale, carrots, sweet potatoes, and garnet yams. Hot chiles, which are high in Vitamin C, are also very good.

More Good Foods: 

More Good Foods Fresh fruits in moderation High quality natural (preferably organic) pellets Brown rice Clean water — change it at least twice a day; if it’s too dirty for you to drink, change it. Treats (one or two almonds in the shell per day; unsalted, unbuttered, hot air-popped popcorn once in a while; small pieces of whole-grain bread)

Foods to Avoid : 

Foods to Avoid Parrots are junk food junkies. The worse it is for them, the better they seem to like it. We recommend that you do NOT feed your bird the following:

Avoid : 

Avoid Animal fats, animal protein, and fried foods Commercial seed mixes (fattening and contain bacteria and rodent feces); a few sunflower and safflower seeds occasionally are okay. Microwaved popcorn (contains really nasty chemicals) Salty foods Onions and garlic Dyed pellets Nuts (other than almonds) for parrots other than macaws (who need nuts in their diet) Peanuts in the shell—they can contain both deadly fungus and an invisible, deadly toxin that will destroy your bird’s liver CACA — caffeine, alcohol, chocolate, avocado

CAGES: 

CAGES An aviary (a cage big enough for your bird to fly in) is ideal. But if you can’t have one . . .

Cage Size: 

Cage Size Get a bigger cage for your bird than you think he needs. At the absolute minimum, a bird needs a cage large enough so that he can fully spread his wings without touching the sides of the cage, and at least twice that size is better.

Bar Spacing: 

Bar Spacing Your bird's head should not be able to fit between the bars of the cage. If it can, you could easily end up with a strangled bird.

Materials: 

Materials Stainless steel and powder‑coated (that is, baked‑on coating) cast iron and steel cages are best. Galvanized steel should be avoided, because birds can and do succumb to zinc poisoning.

Doors: 

Doors There should be at least a 1/4" gap on all sides between the door and frame of a bird's cage. Tight‑fitting doors are a recipe for severed toes and feet.

Cage Shape: 

Cage Shape Avoid round cages. Cages with flat tops are by far the best. You can hang toys from flat tops, and some birds (especially Amazons) enjoy hanging upside down from flat tops.

Placement: 

Placement Parrots are social animals and like to be where the action is. The living room or den is generally a good place for a cage. Do NOT put a bird’s cage in a bedroom, garage or other isolated place.

More on Placement: 

More on Placement Never place a bird's cage in the middle of a room. That's a recipe for an anxious, nervous bird. Place cages against walls, preferably in well‑lit areas. Avoid drafty places, such as under a vent. And if you place your bird’s cage in front of a sunny window, make sure that part of the cage is in shade.

One Bird Per Cage: 

One Bird Per Cage Never put a new bird into a cage with your existing bird. He’ll feel invaded, and probably angry and threatened. If possible, introduce the new bird’s cage to your bird first, so he’ll get used to it, before introducing the new bird.

Bottom Lining: 

Bottom Lining Use newspaper (at least two sheets thick), and change the papers daily. Avoid using ground corn cob, walnut shells or other such spongy media on cage bottoms; they hide filth and encourage the growth of deadly bacteria and fungus.

Grates & Poop Trays: 

Grates & Poop Trays If your bird’s cage has a grate, either get rid of it (if you can do so without exposing a large gap) or put newspaper on the grate. Most new cages come with poop trays on top of the cage. If you buy a new cage, remove the top poop tray. Most birds hate them.

Cage Cleaning: 

Cage Cleaning Haul your bird's cage outside and thoroughly scrub it down every few weeks. Strong sunlight is a great disinfectant.

Dish Cleaning: 

Dish Cleaning Clean your bird's water and food dishes at least daily. (Water dishes tend to need cleaning two or three times a day.)

Time Out of Cage: 

Time Out of Cage At a bare minimum, your bird should have at least two to four hours out of his cage every day, and more “out time” is better.

PERCHES: 

PERCHES All good perches have uneven surfaces. Grapevine perches and mesquite-branch perches are very good, as are perches made from citrus and eucalyptus. Large-diameter rope perches are comfortable, but should be washed and trimmed (of loose strands) often.

More on Perches: 

More on Perches Avoid perfectly round perches—dowel sticks, PVC or ABS pipe, etc. Such perches can give your bird painful foot sores. Manzanita perches are slippery and can be a hazard for baby birds or birds with balance problems, but are okay for most birds. Avoid sandpaper-covered perches. Cement perches are okay only if there are also natural-wood perches in the cage.

HEALTH: 

HEALTH Birds hide illness. If your bird looks sick, he probably is. If you suspect that your bird is ill, take him to an avian vet immediately. We recommend that birds be vet checked annually.

Signs of Illness: 

Signs of Illness Sitting on bottom of cage Change in activity level Being fluffed up for extended period Sleeping during day (beyond normal napping) Tail bobbing in time with breathing Discoloured droppings Discharge from nares (nostrils) or blocked nares

Common Bird Illness: 

Common Bird Illness Psittacosis PBFD PDD Polyoma

Elementary Poopology: 

Elementary Poopology There are three components to bird poop Feces (the green tubular component) Urea (the white liquid matter mixed with the faeces) Urine (the clear liquid mixed with the faeces and urea)

Poopology Cont’d: 

Poopology Cont’d These three components should be distinct. If your bird’s poop is an amorphous mass, take him to the vet. Blood in a bird’s droppings is cause to take the bird directly to the vet. (But be aware of what you’re feeding your bird: bright red or orange fruits or veggies—beets, bing cherries, garnet yams, etc.—can cause red or orange poop.)

 Still More Poopology: 

  Still More Poopology Bird poop should not stink. If it does, it’s evidence of a bacterial infection. In such a case, take your bird to the vet immediately.

Human/Bird Contact: 

Human/Bird Contact Do not let your bird eat out of your mouth. Humans’ mouths are very septic compared with a bird’s, and letting your bird eat out of your mouth is dangerous to your bird.

Showers: 

Showers Bird need regular showers. We recommend at least once a week. Some birds prefer spray bottle baths, while others prefer going into the shower with you. If your bird doesn’t want to shower so frequently, try to accommodate him, but shower him at least every other week.

Light: 

Light Parrots need a certain amount of UV light. If you can, take your bird outside with you at least 15 minutes a day or, better, provide him with an outdoor aviary. The aviary, of course, should be partially shaded.

Clipping: 

Clipping We encourage most people, especially new owners, to clip their birds' flight feathers. If you do clip your bird, trim only his flight feathers, the "primaries" at the ends of his wings. Do not clip the "secondary" feathers near to his body. These do not affect his ability to fly, only his ability to land.

More on Clipping: 

More on Clipping Many pet stores give horrible, unsafe clip jobs (and sometimes expose your bird to disease). We recommend clipping your bird yourself or taking it to a qualified vet for a clip job.

Toenail Clipping: 

Toenail Clipping Unless you’ve very thick skinned, you’ll probably want to keep your bird’s toenails clipped. When you do this, keep the following in mind: There are blood vessels and nerves in birds’ toenails. Clip them too short and you’ll hurt your bird and quite possibly cause bleeding.

More on Toenail Clipping: 

More on Toenail Clipping Clipping toenails too short can also cause a bird to have balance and gripping problems. So, clip toenails just short enough to blunt them. If you do hit a blood vessel, dip the bleeding toenail in flour or corn starch.

Sleep: 

Sleep Parrots need at least 10 hours sleep per night, with 12 being better. We recommend that you use a sleep cage for your bird’s sleep time. This should be a small cage in a dark place, such as a closet. Make sure that your bird has water in his sleep cage.

HOUSEHOLD HAZARDS: 

HOUSEHOLD HAZARDS

Cooking & Cookery: 

Cooking & Cookery Non-stick Cookery—Non-stick pans, self-cleaning ovens, etc., when heated, omit a chemical which is carcinogenic in humans and which acts as a nerve toxin against birds. Get rid of all “non-stick” items in your home. Cooking with your bird on your arm or shoulder. Grisly accidents can, and do, happen involving boiling water, grease-filled skillets, etc. Don’t let this happen to your bird.

Smoking: 

Smoking Second-hand smoke is bad for humans. It’s even worse for birds, who have more sensitive respiratory systems than we do. If you smoke, you shouldn’t get a bird.

Other Pets: 

Other Pets Dogs—Contrary to what you might expect, dogs are generally more of a hazard to birds than cats. If your dog acts aggressively toward a bird, you should wait until your dog dies to bring a bird into your home.

Other Pets Cont’d: 

Other Pets Cont’d Reptiles—Constrictor-type snakes kill birds, and birds are terrified of them. Apparently non-threatening reptiles, such as turtles and iguanas, very often carry salmonella bacteria, which can be deadly to birds. If you have any type of reptile, you should not have a bird.

Other Pets Cont’d: 

Other Pets Cont’d Cats—Cats are generally afraid of large birds, but cat scratches can carry deadly infections. If your cat scratches your bird, get your bird to a vet immediately.

Other Pets Cont’d: 

Other Pets Cont’d Ferrets—Ferrets are semi-wild, predatory animals, and known bird killers. If you have a ferret, you should not get a bird.

Kids & Teenagers: 

Kids & Teenagers Sometimes parrots do not mix well with children and teenagers. A special hazard here, even if your kids are okay with birds, are your children's friends. Do not let your kids' friends have unsupervised contact with your bird.

Other Physical Hazards: 

Other Physical Hazards Exposed Electrical Cords — Parrots are very curious, have large, powerful, beaks, and love to chew on things. Eliminate exposed electrical cords in areas where your bird can roam. New Carpet (and other things emitting strong chemical odors). Birds are more sensitive than people, and chemical odors that we find merely unpleasant can sometimes kill a bird. If you get a new carpet, air it out for at least a week before bringing it into the house.

Scented Products: 

Scented Products Birds’ respiratory systems are more sensitive than ours are, so also avoid: Incense Scented candles Sage “purifying” smudges Air “fresheners,” especially the plug-in kind — the odor from these things consists of a chemical stew.

Other Hazards Cont’d: 

Other Hazards Cont’d Ceiling Fans and Windows — Ceiling fans are dangerous to flighted birds for obvious reasons. Windows can also be dangerous to flighted birds, because flighted birds sometimes fly into them head first. Open Toilets — Smaller flighted or semi‑flighted birds can drown in toilets, and even if they don't drown they can easily pick up diseases from the inside of a toilet. Keep your toilet's lid fully closed at all times.

BIRD BEHAVIOR: 

BIRD BEHAVIOR Parrots have the intelligence of three-to-five-year-old kids and the emotional maturity of two year olds. They get bored easily. And they hold grudges. The key to whether you have a happy, affectionate bird or a screaming, biting bird is you.

Trust: 

Trust The basis of the human-parrot relationship is trust. It’s easy to win, harder to keep, and if you lose it — one ill-conceived action can do it — it’s very hard to regain. The one ironclad rule in dealing with parrots is never, ever hit, threaten, or scream at a bird. Any of these things will destroy your bird’s trust in you and will encourage “bad” behavior.

Screaming: 

Screaming Birds scream for many reasons, and screaming is normal at certain times (e.g., when they get up, when you arrive home). If you’ve adopted a bird and he screams incessantly or at inappropriate times, there is only one solution: ignore him when he screams.

More on Screaming: 

More on Screaming A minute or two after a screaming bird has quieted down, praise him for being a good quiet bird. Turn your back and walk away if he starts screaming again while you’re praising him. This takes patience, but it’s the only thing that works. Never scream back at a screaming bird. Birds are drama queens and screaming at them encourages their screaming. (Negative attention is better than no attention.) If your bird screams at predictable times, use pre-emptive behaviour to avoid the screaming if it bothers you.

Biting: 

Biting Birds bite for a number of reasons: Fear Jealousy Displacement Aggression Attention/Drama Territoriality Dominance/Intimidation

More on Biting: 

More on Biting With fear and territorial biting, the cure is simple: stop doing what your bird fears and/or stop invading his space. Jealousy biting is common and birds sometimes attack those those they dislike because of jealousy. More often, jealousy biting manifests itself as displacement biting.

More on Biting: 

More on Biting Displacement biting often occurs when you’re holding your bird and someone he dislikes approaches you, or you give attention to a bird that the bird on your arm or shoulder dislikes. The solution is to get away from that person or bird and/or to put your bird down. When a bird bites for attention or for drama, the best solution is to ignore the bite as much as possible. Don’t make a big deal about it. Again, this takes patience, but it works.

Still More on Biting: 

Still More on Biting If blatant aggression is involved (that is, dominance biting), towel your bird immediately and give him a short timeout in a place with no social contact or other stimulus (e.g., the bathtub). Birds have short attention spans, and anything longer than two or three minutes is pointlessly cruel. Do not use a bird’s cage or sleep cage for timeouts—this confuses being in his cage or going to bed with punishment.

Avoiding Boredom: 

Avoiding Boredom Give your bird a new toy at least once a month. Something as simple as a bell can provide hours of enjoyment. Even simpler toys, such as strips of plain cardboard and empty (and clean) plastic tubs, can provide considerable chewing/playing pleasure. Ample time out of cage is also extremely important.

Birdy Buddies: 

Birdy Buddies Most birds will enjoy having a birdy buddy. Consider getting your bird a companion. But let him choose his companion. This is a good reason to adopt rather than buy — when you adopt, you have a chance to see whether your bird will get along with the new bird. If he doesn’t, you can return the new bird with no financial loss.

Feather Picking: 

Feather Picking There is usually an organic cause for feather picking (diet or zinc poisoning being common) in well cared for birds. (But neglected birds will often pick out of boredom.) If your bird is picking, take him to a good avian vet and have lab tests done. Attempting to verbally discourage your bird’s picking will actually reinforce it. If there is no organic cause and your bird continues to pick, check to see if there were any changes in your bird’s environment around the time he started to pick. If there were, undo them.

Sex and the Single Bird: 

Sex and the Single Bird Your bird will likely exhibit seasonal sexual behaviour. Female birds will put their heads down, raise their rears, and shudder—they’re not having seizures. Male birds will put their vents down and rub on you.

More on Sex: 

More on Sex Some birds exhibit non-seasonal sexual behavior. This is due to their being in a rich environment with abundant food and light. Keeping your bird on a steady sleep schedule (e.g., 12 hours per day) will help curb both seasonal and non-seasonal sexual behaviour. Reducing the richness of a bird’s diet (e.g., cutting back on treats and fruit) can also help curb sexual behavior and egg laying.

Still More on Sex: 

Still More on Sex Changing your bird’s environment (e.g., moving the bird’s cage) can also discourage sexual behavior and egg laying. Do not allow your bird to have a nest chamber (such as a kitchen cabinet). No heavy petting—Do not pet your bird “below the waist.”

WHAT TO DO IF YOU LOSE YOUR BIRD: 

WHAT TO DO IF YOU LOSE YOUR BIRD Walk around your neighborhood looking for your bird and calling for him. If he has a companion, take the companion with you in a carrier, and encourage the bird in the carrier to call out, too. If that fails, go door to door.

If You Lose Your Bird Cont’d: 

If You Lose Your Bird Cont’d Put up flyers on phone poles in all directions out to about a mile. Put a lost bird ad in the daily paper’s classifieds section. Check the “Found Animals” section of the classified ads every day.

If You Lose Your Bird Cont’d: 

If You Lose Your Bird Cont’d Put an ad in your local paper’s online classifieds and on craigslist.org. Check the online classifieds and craigslist.org every day. Call pet stores, vets, and TARA. To avoid all this, clip your bird’s flight feathers so that he’s semi-flighted.

A Final Word: 

A Final Word Above all, give your bird your time. This is the greatest gift you can give.

And Please Remember: 

And Please Remember TARA always needs volunteers to help with transporting birds, fostering birds, doing public outreach, and many other things. If you’d like to help, please talk with us after class.