Rocket Stove - MPP

Slide 1: 

The Rocket Stove A Native way to cook and stay warm

Slide 2: 

What is a Rocket Stove: A rocket stove/Rocket mass heater is a type of stove combining the air-intake with the fuel-feed slot in an opening terminated by the combustion chamber, further leading to a chimney and heat exchanger. A rocket stove is signified by ease of construction and simplicity of building materials while accepting small-diameter fuel such as twigs or small branches, yielding high combustion efficiency and directing the resultant heat onto a small area.

Slide 3: 

A Rocket Stove Can: Replace conventional cooking appliance Can be used indoors with proper ventilation. Produces 70% more heat than other cooking stoves Uses a fraction of the fuel Fuel can be as simple as twigs, pine needles, pine cones or any other combustible fuel. You don’t need a camp stove and its mobile

Slide 4: 

How a Rocket stove works – Its really Simple

Slide 5: 

How a Rocket stove works – Its really Simple

Slide 6: 

Lets build our own Rocket Stove

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Components 5 Gallon Steel Bucket and Lid – Graingers - $21 Vermiculite – Commercial Grade – Graingers - $20 per 20 lb bag Galvanized 4 Inch Duct, 4 foot length – Lowes - $4 Galvanized 4 inch “T” – Lowes - $4 Tube of fire rated sealant - Lowes $14 One can of flat black paint – Lowes $3 6 self tapping sheet metal screws 8 inch by 10 inch piece of flat sheet metal - $3

Slide 8: 

Tools Drill 1/32 and 3/8 drill bit Tape Measure Punch Hammer Sheet Metal Sheers Marker Mayonnaise Lid Screw Diver or Nut Driver for sheet metal screws Pliers or channel locks Paper Towels HEAVY GLOVES! WEAR THEM ALL THE TIME! Face Mask Safety Glasses

Slide 9: 

Place four inch pipe against bucket and use a nail or scribe to outline the 4 inch diameter against the bucket.

Slide 10: 

Use the punch to create a dimple (This will prevent the denting of the bucket) so you can drill the first of two holes side by side

Slide 11: 

Drill two holes as close to one another as possible so you will be able to insert the sheet metal sheers to cut a larger holes.

Slide 12: 

Cut a smaller hole within the scribed area as shown

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Then cut outward within the hole to just inside the scribed circle every inch to create tabs to fold back into the bucket.

Slide 14: 

Fold the tabs into the bucket and then set aside. Pick the Galvanized “T” as shown and make four cuts as shown. Four equal cuts on opposite sides. The lengths of the cuts should be equal to the back of the flue pipe

Slide 15: 

Fold the four cut tabs over until you have closed the end of the pipe creating an elbow as shown. Then use the 1/32 drill and drill two holes holding from the inside the bottom most flap so the drill will go through all four folded flaps.

Slide 16: 

Hold the flaps from the inside and insert two of the self tapping sheet metal screws as shown. Make sure the inside flap is captured.

Slide 17: 

Set aside the elbow and cut a five inch piece of pipe and insert into the elbow that will exit the exterior hole of the bucket you had already cut. Then insert it into the bucket

Slide 18: 

Position the inserted elbow approximately in the center of the bucket. Next you will cut the flue pipe that will exit through the lid

Slide 19: 

Cut a 7 inch piece of pipe (approx) and make 4 small cuts on all four sides of one end to reduce. Insert into the elbow in the bucket . Make sure the length of the pipe is level and even with the lip of the top of the bucket

Slide 20: 

Use the tape measure to properly align the up pipe to center it in the bucket. Finding the center is critical to the cut of the hole in the lid

Slide 21: 

Take a piece of the 4 inch pipe and set it in the middle of the lid. Use the tape measure and make sure it is dead center. Use the nail again and scribe around the diameter to create an outline

Slide 22: 

Use the punch and dimple the center of the area and drill two holes

Slide 23: 

Cut a small hole and repeat the process you did with the bucket by cutting to the line outward. Use the pliers or channel locks to peel the tabs inside the lid

Slide 24: 

Put on mask. Place mayo lid over pipe opening and fill the bucket with Vermiculite as shown. PACK it as much as possible.

Slide 25: 

Once filled and PACKED tightly, remove the lid

Slide 26: 

Take the bucket lid and place it onto the bucket pushing the up pipe into the cut hole of the lid. There should be enough Vermiculite present to assure a tight fit to close.

Slide 27: 

The height of the up pipe (outlet) should be between the lid surface and the lip of the lid.

Slide 28: 

Take drill and on four opposing side drill four small holes (1/32) and insert self tapping screws and tighten while holding lid down. This will compact the vermiculite and hold in place the pipe

Slide 29: 

If gaps are present around pipes, use the fire rated sealant to close these gaps. Allow to dry and cure before firing up the Rocket Stove

Slide 30: 

Take the flat 8 X 10 sheet metal and measure it against the inside diameter of the inlet tube, cut and shape to create a rest for the fuel as shown. It should run the entire length of the inlet into the combustion chamber

Slide 31: 

This is critical. You must have this to assure proper air intake into the combustion chamber to attain high temperatures.

Slide 32: 

Paint with high heat Flat Black Paint

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Fuel – Just about anything. To start the fire we used pine needles with scrap pine 2X4’s split 12 inches long one inch wide. You will burn only the tips of the fuel at any given time. You will advance the fuel as it burns.

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Purchase a small grill to put onto the lid to be able to place pots or pans . Or you can use anything to allow air flow

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Light weight and easy to use.

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Temperature – As shown, we were able to boil water (226 Degrees) in 10 minutes and eventually some hot dogs for lunch! Combustion Chamber Temps were high enough to melt sheet aluminum per one of our tests.

Slide 37: 

The Rocket Stove – Build time – 2 hours per unit.